There’s This Road: The Majestic Beartooth Highway
And it is a doozy of a road. I used the word "doozy." I meant it.
Another in my series of stories about roads. Whenever two or more bikers get together, many stories begin with, “There’s this road… This is one of those stories.
In the words of Robert Frost, “Two roads diverged in a wood, and I — I took the one less traveled.”
Now, for sure, the Beartooth Highway is not the “least traveled”, it is limited in travel time.
They closed it on October 11, 2022, and they expect it to open on Memorial Day. I “expect” because, as I write this on April 28, 2023, it is currently snowing on the top of Beartooth Pass. With a current base of over 126 inches, there are five more inches expected tomorrow.
That’s a lot of snow.
As a motorcyclist, I prefer not to ride in the snow.
Or mud, rain, hail, gravel… oh hell, my bike likes pavement.
Dry pavement.
The Beartooth Highway, a ribbon of pavement snaking through the mountains of Montana and Wyoming.
If you’re like me, a motorcyclist with an itch for adventure and a penchant for breathtaking vistas, this is the article for you.
Let’s start with the basics:
Red Lodge, Montana. This quaint town serves as the gateway to the Beartooth Highway on the east side of the mountains. If you go, you want to go west from Red Lodge. That puts you on an uphill climb for most of the trip.
Coming in from the west means you ride the brake all the way down. And that’s a lot of braking.
There’s a reason I know this.
Red Lodge is a great little town, with its cozy lodges, friendly locals, and fairly vibrant history. It’s the perfect starting point for your adventure over the top, whether you’re riding solo or with a group.
Remember to gas up at Circle 17. It’s sort of a custom for a lot of the bikers who ride this section of mountainous fun, so you need to get gas, a soda or two, and a sticker. Circle 17… if you know, you know.
Now, before we pull out of town, you need to know; the Beartooth Highway isn’t your average Sunday drive. With elevations reaching over 10,000 feet, you’ll find yourself skirting the very edge of the clouds.
And this means that the weather can be as unpredictable as it is stunning.
At some point, it has snowed on every calendar day at the top of Beartooth Pass.
You might find yourself basking in the sun one moment and bracing against whipping winds and snow the next. Keep a watchful eye on the forecast and pack layers to ensure you’re prepared for any surprises Mother Nature might throw your way.
Let’s say that one more time: Keep a watchful eye on the forecast and pack layers to ensure you’re prepared for any surprises.
From Deets from Wikipedia:
The Beartooth Highway is the section of U.S. Route 212 between Red Lodge and Cooke City, Montana. It traces a series of steep zigzags and switchbacks, along the Montana–Wyoming border (45th parallel) to the 10,947-foot-high (3,337 m) Beartooth Pass in Wyoming. The approximate elevation rise is from 5,200 ft (1,580 m) to 10,947 ft (3,337 m) in twelve miles (19 km) in the most daring landscapes.
When driving east to west, the highest parts of the Beartooth Highway level off into a wide plateau near the top of the pass, then descend to the junction with Wyoming Highway 296 (Chief Joseph Scenic Byway) near Cooke City, the northeast gateway to Yellowstone National Park. On the way, one passes numerous lakes typical of the Absaroka–Beartooth Wilderness which borders the highway along much of its route.
When is the best time of year to ride?
That’s going to be late spring through early fall. The highway is usually closed from October to May due to snow pack, so plan accordingly. But remember, as with any great adventure, there are absolutely no guarantees.
Flexibility is key.
Late spring riding:
Cold. Colder than you expect if you come in from Red Lodge or Cody. And windy as hell. Expect drastic weather changes. Be alert and check weather as often as you can.
Mid-summer riding.
Mild for the most part, but cold fronts can take the temps below freezing in the nighttime and early morning, so be vigilant. A wonderful time for getting off the bike and hiking around.
(NOTE: I can say with certainty that there is far less air at 10,000+ feet than you expect (unless you live in Leadville, CO), and it can be brutal if you over-exert yourself.)
Fall riding.
My favorite.
Brisk air, no crowds, cold but not biting, and the colorful trees in mid-September make up for any discomfort. Don’t expect trees on the pass, though. You are way above tree line, and the landscape is a mix of tundra, rock, and tiny, delicate grass.
Winter riding.
What, you think there’s winter riding?
You will see color in Red Lodge, and along the Chief Joseph Highway (a must-ride if you are in the area).
Let’s talk about the main attraction for us motorcycling photographers: the photographic opportunities. OK, maybe an equal to the thrill of the ride.
OK, there are times when the ride takes center stage. You and I both know that the ride can be the entire reason for the trip, and the photographs are the wonderful distractions we can immerse ourselves in when we have a chance to pull over.
Speaking of pulling over. Be very careful, the pullouts can be brutally rough with sharp rock and little padding.
But, you’ll want to keep your camera handy for this trip because the Beartooth Highway offers an unlimited number of jaw-dropping views.
From the rugged cliffs of the Rocky Mountains to the sparkling alpine lakes, there’s no shortage of natural beauty to capture.
Remember, for a dozen or more miles, you are on top of the Rocky Mountains. You can look across at the meadows and flat areas that make up this incredible landscape, even looking down at the tops of mountains that most people arch their heads up to see.
You see what most people never get a chance to see. What a privilege to be able to stand on such a rare part of our earth.
And don’t forget about the wildlife — grizzly bears, moose, mountain goats, and more call this area home. I have seen many critters on my three rides there, but never a grizzly.
Elk, deer, bison, cows, marmots, skunks, squirrels, and chipmunks, along with an incredible array of birds, yes.
But, alas, no bears.
When you’re riding, it’s essential to stay alert and aware of your surroundings on this road. With hairpin turns, steep grades, and the occasional bison wandering onto the road, the Beartooth Highway demands your full attention.
Don’t let the stunning views distract you; keep your eyes on the road and pull over at designated overlooks to drink in the panorama. This is not a road for being caught off guard.
Preparing to ride the Beartooth Highway is like preparing for any great adventure: a mix of research, gear, and attitude. Study maps and familiarize yourself with the route.
Make sure your bike is ready for this, and stock up on water, snacks, and Hostess Cupcakes. (Don’t judge.) Make sure you have any necessary tools. Approach this journey with an excited sense of wonder, suspense, and a healthy respect for this unique road.
A trip to the Beartooth Highway means at least a nod to the superhumans who built it.
As part of the New Deal, it was constructed in the 1930s. It is a testament to human ingenuity, engineering, and perseverance. As you ride, take a moment to appreciate the labor and skill that went into carving this path through the wilderness.
It is truly a spectacular feat of engineering and chutzpah. These guys had guts.
To me, the Beartooth Highway is more than just a road — it’s almost an addiction experience. It’s a chance to challenge myself, to connect with nature, and to create memories that will last a lifetime.
This summer, fire up your scooter, strap on your helmet, and take on the adventure of a lifetime.
Remember, there’s this road, and it’s waiting for you.
I will probably spend my 74th birthday in early August on the summit, eating my Hostess Cupcakes, with a salami sandwich and a Diet Pepsi.
I'm hoping I get yet one more chance to see this spiritual place.
I am Don Giannatti.
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